In the world of premium spirits, "artisanal" has become a tired buzzword, often slapped onto bottles that were born in soulless factories. But if you drive into the heart of Atotonilco El Alto and step into the courtyard of Casa Siete Leguas (NOM 1120), you’ll find that "artisanal" isn’t a label - it’s a living, breathing, hay-eating reality.
There are many fascinating components at Siete Leguas: gleaming copper pot stills, gorgeous stained glass, an innovative process of blending blancos from two adjacent distilleries. But without question, the most impactful features are 14 beloved mules.
For the avid tequila consumer, Siete Leguas needs no introduction. They are among the guardians of the Highlands, a family-owned bastion of tradition that has stayed remarkably consistent since 1952.
The Gonzalez family has always used - although not exclusively - volcanic stone tahonas to crush their agave. But the Siete Leguas tahonas aren’t the same as the ones you’ll find in other craft distilleries. These are still animal-operated, exactly as they were in the mid-century.
The original power couple
Siete Leguas may be the only tequila distillery of the ~200 in operation that still uses animals in the production process. Long after other distilleries switched to electric or gas motors, or even abandoned tahonas in favor of more efficient extraction schemes, the Gonzalezes persist with mule power.
The Original Power Couple: The Mule and the Tahona
At most distilleries, the "extraction" phase is a loud, mechanical affair. At Siete Leguas’ original distillery, El Centenario, dating to 1952, and their newest facility, La Victoria, the process sounds different. It’s the sound of a "tahonero" (the stone master) whistling, the soft thud of hooves on earth, and the low, tectonic rumble of a multi-ton volcanic stone crushing cooked agave.
Every grinding session is a coordinated dance between two mules and one tahonero. To the casual observer, the mules seem to be walking aimlessly in a circle. To the distillery team, it’s a high-stakes partnership.
The results of this slow-motion grind are immediate. Because the tahona extraction is gentle, it doesn't shred the agave fibers. Instead, it "massages" the sugars out. This provides the "house essence" of Siete Leguas: a distinct weight on the palate and a deep earthiness.
To create their final blanco, Siete Leguas blends mule-drawn tahona-crushed tequila with roller mill (trapiche) extracted tequila made at their La Vencedora distillery next door. If you get a chance to visit and try each of the components by themselves, you’ll note the trapiche tequila is brighter, with more citrus and herbal characteristics.
The combination of the two processes gives the brand its signature flavor profile. It’s essentially two separate tequilas blended to make one.
Managing the Mules
They’re not livestock; they’re colleagues. At Casa Siete Leguas, the mules are treated as a core part of the production staff, complete with veterinary care standards, strict work schedules, and a retirement plan that would make most of us jealous.
The mules work in short sessions. A regular rhythm consists of two tahona runs per day, each lasting a couple of hours in duration, with ample recovery time between stints. When they aren't working, they aren't just standing in a corner of the factory. They have a dedicated "mule lounge"—a specially adapted area with shade, hydration stations, and plenty of space to decompress.
Like any team, there are personalities and a fair share of office drama. The tahoneros, who spend more time with these animals than almost anyone else, have given them names that reflect their personalities: La Pólvora (Gunpowder), La Reposada (The Rested One), and El Zopilote (The Vulture).
"The mules are very social," the distillery team notes. "They’ll actually try to stop the grind for attention if their favorite handler walks by. The tahoneros know exactly which one needs a gentle ‘vamos’ to keep going and which one only behaves when the boss is watching."
Sound familiar?
Continuity with Responsibility
So, why keep the mules in 2026? In an era of automation, why deal with veterinary checks, hay logistics, and the stubbornness of a mule? It’s certainly not the most economical way to make tequila.
For Siete Leguas, it’s about credibility. "Staying faithful to the tahona is central to our brand’s identity," they say. "We see it as something to protect and manage intelligently—so it can outlast any single generation."
And they aren't just maintaining a quaint throwback, perfect for selfies. Siete Leguas insists that their tequila contains flavors that can only be achieved through mule-drawn tahonas. They assert no machine can mimic the process because the mules, led by the tahonero, can modulate their pace, applying a more gentle squeeze to the agave fibers. This reduces bitterness in the final product.
Next time you pour a glass of Siete Leguas Blanco, take a moment to look at the "legs" on the glass. That viscosity and that earthy, spiced finish started with a volcanic stone and eight hooves. It’s a taste that spans more than 70 years, led by a team of 14 team members who just might stop working if you don't give them a pat on the head. Or better yet, a carrot.
If you’re interested in visiting distilleries with the Tequila Report, head on over to our contact page and let us know. Remember, Insiders get first dibs on tour RSVPs.
